LOL, well I didn't actually loose a wheel, but I have found that one of my rear wheel bearings was shot.. I've currently got it all apart and will be reinstalling new bearings tomorrow.. So I would advise Outlander owners to jack up all your wheels and give 'em a shake to make sure to bearings are still good.

FYI: This job requires you to remove the complete TTI arm which requires a special socket only available at BRP dealerships.. I've tried both Ford and Toyota 4wd hub sockets, but neither will fit. My dealer was nice enough to lend me their shop tool. An impact wrench was required to get the TTI arm locknut off.
Once the TTI arm is off, its pretty straight forward.. Put the arm in a vise and remove the circlip holding the bearing assembly in, then pound away to get the bearing out of the arm.. (hit toward the circlip)

I also went a cheaper route than buying an OEM wheel bearing.. I had called local supplier with my bearing number, and once hearing the number he started to laugh as he knew it was a dealer only part.. So I brough it in to try and match it up with one they had in stock.. what ended up happening was I bought 2 smaller bearings #6206 for $11 total.. These 2 smaller bearings are not as wide as the original so i had a machinest make up a spacer from some 2.5" round tubing.. the approx specs for the spacer are 2.44" O.D and .244" wide.. I currently have the bearing and spacer in the freezer and will be completing the job in the morning (by freezing the bearings they should just drop into the bore on the TTI arm, rather than pounding them in).. if all goes well, I wont miss the big mud run this weekend.!!

Gypsy was your old bearing dry or it still had some grease on it. I never undid the back arm but did you see if it would be possible to add grease elimites to be able to grease rear bearing. I did this with my traxter and I could grease my swing arm bearings because when I changed them they were dried out.

"if all goes well, I wont miss the big mud run this weekend.!!"

the River Valley Run? I'll be there and can't wait....
Luc

Four Hundred CC's, and Mud in the Field...

Sorry, I'll go back in my corner.

Another fellow member headed to the River Valley Run, Ive been counting the days till this run. I read in another forum that this would be the last year for this run, now i have tried to get a hold of my uncle as he is the ride organizer to find out if its true or not but i will have to wait till i get there. I really hope they keep this run alive.

Hope to see a few of you out on the trails this weekend!
Cheers

Ron53: The bearings are sealed units, simmilar to a snowmobile idler wheel bearing (except twice as wide) so greasing is not an option..

Freezing the bearings prior to install is necessary as I still had to pound the new ones in (used the old bearing as a punch)

to all others... yes I'm talking about the River Valley Run.. Keep an eye out for a red outlander with no rear racks (I smashed them) and GYPSY decal on the back..

I just got it together and the spacer worked out perfect.. now I'm off to the dealer to borrow the locknut socket again.

What was the cost difference between the OEM part and the way you did it?

Even with the sealed bearrings grease will force its way it past the seal, how do you think the bearings get dirt in them in the first place. On snowmobiles there is a grease nipple on the driveshaft bearing and the bearing in there is a sealed bearing.

rogdog wrote:

What was the cost difference between the OEM part and the way you did it?

I think the OEM bearing is around $75 cdn.. I could be wrong as I didn't price them, but I do know that dealers, regardless of brand, soak you for bearings which can be found much cheaper from a bearing supplier.. Luckily, here in Sudbury we have 2 or 3 bearing shops.. My price for the 2 smaller bearings was $12 total, and the machining for the spacer was free, but would be rather cheap in a shop as it didn't take long (about 10 min. on the lathe)..

Any time you need a bearing for an ATV, try a bearing supplier first, O.D , I.D and width (measured in mm) are all they need to know if you cant get the number of it.

Case in point, a buddy of mine rebuilt the diff in his Kodiak.. Dealer wanted $75 for 1 internal Pinion bearing.. he went to a local bearing supply shop and got the same bearing for around $9.00.. He bought all his bearings and seals there for the diff and the total was around $75..

450man wrote:

Even with the sealed bearrings grease will force its way it past the seal, how do you think the bearings get dirt in them in the first place. On snowmobiles there is a grease nipple on the driveshaft bearing and the bearing in there is a sealed bearing.

I have to agree.. But for what its worth, you would have to dissassemble somewhat to properly grease them.. so might as well change 'em!